Dining

Delicious Dish

Summer Sensations

Must-have dining experiences

By Sharon Levinsohn

Chefs who push the envelope, who pride themselves on sourcing extraordinary ingredients and creating extremely creative dishes, have inspired awe in true foodies. The two chefs and their restaurants profiled in this issue, have distinguished themselves and engendered loyal followings. Although one restaurant is cozy, intimate and free-standing, and one is larger and based in a new hotel, both are serving up memorable meals and helping to make wonderful experiences for diners.

EOS

Viceroy Miami at Icon Brickell; 485 Brickell Avenue ;Miami; 305.503.0373; eosatviceroy.com

THE DETAILS

The new kid on the block is a knock-out, thanks to an extraordinarily talented Manhattan duo who chose the Viceroy Miami for their first venture outside of Gotham. Eos—which is the Greek word for “new dawn”— is symbolic for new beginnings. This posh spot is the creation of awardwinning star chef Michael Psilakis and star restaurateur, Donatella Arpaia. After taking Manhattan by storm, Psilakis and Arpaia brought their combo of fantastic food, stylish design and attentive service to the chic, new hotel (which opened in February of 2009). Eos’ eclectic Mediterranean menu, which is centered around small plates, is perfect for the climate (and for sharing amongst friends).

This spirited new restaurant— which debuted in April of 2009—is situated on the fifteenth floor of the Viceroy at Icon Brickell, an impressive three-tower complex which is an outstanding addition to Miami’s downtown business district. Make sure to take a walk around the fifteenth floor after your meal — the views are inspiring!

THE TEAM

Chef Michael Psilakis and restaurateur Donatella Arpaia are an extremely successful culinary duo with impressive pedigrees. These long-time friends and business partners have made their mark in Manhattan, where they own Anthos (upscale Greek); Kefi (casual Greek); Mia Dona (chic, upscale, casual Italian); and Gus & Gabriel (a gastro-pub).

Psilakis grew up cooking in his native Long Island, New York and credits his Mom for much of his culinary inspiration. After earning his BBA in finance and accounting, he gravitated toward the restaurant industry. He quickly made his mark and now boasts an impressive CV and a string of successful ventures. Psilakis was named “Best New Chef” by Food & Wine in 2008, “Chef of the Year” by Bon Appetit in 2008, and “Best New Chef” by Esquire in 2007. Anthos was also awarded the prestigious “Michelin Star” and is one of only two Greek restaurants in the world to hold this honor.

Arpaia is an attorney-turnedrestaurateur, who has also distinguished herself in this competitive industry. Her restaurant venture, Davidburke & Donatella, launched her into the culinary spotlight in Manhattan. She went on to partner with Psilakis and open their first restaurant, Dona, which earned raves from the media. (They had to close it when the building was eventually sold.) Their other restaurants in Manhattan have all been definitive hits with both diners and the press. Arpaia has also been featured on many television programs, including The Today Show, Bravo’s Top Chef, and the Food Network’s Iron Chef America. Arpaia has also been profiled as the thirty-first “Most Powerful Woman” in Manhattan by The New York Post and was one of “40 Under 40” by Crain’s New York Business.

THE SETTING

Sitting pretty on floor fifteen of the Viceroy, Eos is home to a dramatic interior which was designed by Kelly Wearstler. This bold-faced designer has married exotic and classical form and function for some startling results. She dressed this incredibly creative venue with vibrant hues that really pop. This means banquettes and a variety of chairs and design elements in bright yellow, orange, coral and violet. The soaring white ceilings, white walls and white rectangular columns, provide the perfect counterpoints to all of the smashing color choices. Oversized sculptural chandeliers, floor tiles of black marquina stone, and a sleek, 27-foot bar (topped with white, pink and yellow Brescia pontifica marble) are noteworthy accents. Floor-to-ceiling windows along part of the exterior of the restaurant provide a view of the Eos terrace, where you can also dine throughout the day and the evening.

THE CUISINE

Since Psilakis is a passionate chef who is revered for his modern take on Greek cuisine—and sourcing the freshest and finest ingredients—the Mediterranean features prominently in his menu, with notable items from Morocco, Spain, Portugal and France. Even if you are not a fan of the raw stuff, trust me and indulge in the offerings at Eos. Start with a few plates of sushi and sashimi—they are all divine, thanks to expert sourcing and excellent execution. I adored the scallop sashimi with basil seed and lemon puree; the yellowtail sashimi with fennel, spices and cantaloupe; the tuna sashimi with watermelon and feta cheese; and the niaragi (striped marlin) sashimi with pistachio and apricot. They all seem to melt in the mouth! After the sashimi, select a ceviche or two—these are also refreshing and bracing. The black grouper ceviche, with mango, chipotle, cumin and cilantro, and the Beau Soleil oyster version, with tomatillo, Peruvian chilis, and plums, both pack a powerful punch.

Psilakis’ menu has a section of terrific vegetable and cheese offerings and you should definitely opt for the burrata—a dreamy, creamy cheese dish, for two—which is served with a selection of local fruit, fennel and red onions with a tasty balsamic drizzle. The hand-made pastas are also taste sensations. Psilakis’ Sheep’s Milk Gnudi is a feather-light ricotta dumpling, served with English peas and manouri cheese. This transcendent dish is a showstopper. It is easy to see why Bon Appetit named his Gnudi “Dish of the Year” in 2007. The lobster and sea urchin risotto, accompanied by caviar, fried herbs and an egg yolk, and the Greek paella, which is served with prawns, merguez (a thin, spicy sausage) and orzo, are both scrumptious.

Other luxe entrees include the Grilled Loup de Mere, which is a boneless whole fish prepared simply, so that the fish really shines; the smoked pork ribs, which are dusted with dried chili, coffee and lime; the smoked escolar, served with goat’s milk yogurt and American sturgeon caviar; and the grilled flatiron steak, which is served with bone marrow and a traditional garlic feta sauce.

Because every meal should have a sweet ending, desserts are a must. The Florida citrus salad, which is served with Pernod sorbet and the Essencia of Chocolate, is a nice balance for the finale.

THE LIBATIONS

There is a full bar here, so any drink you desire can be created. Talented Sommelier, Sergio Caceres, will be happy to pair the perfect drink with any dish. As for wines, the innovative list contains about 50 bottles, with about 12 by the glass that have a decidedly Mediterranean accent. (The list will be expanded to about 100 labels within the year.) There are also plenty of cocktails, which have been created by Ryan Magarian (one of the country’s top mixologists). The yummy house specialty drinks are made with fresh squeezed juices, along with fresh local herbs and veggies. The Eos Especial made with Atlantico rum, housemade clover-honey syrup, freshly squeezed lime and grapefruit juices, and Angostura Bitters is a winner.

THE EXTRAS

Eos serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Charming General Manager Matthew Gardiner, leads a gifted staff who make sure that your dining experience is memorable. For a true getaway, book one of the Viceroy’s deluxe rooms or suites (there are 162, with partial or full kitchens). V

Dolce de Palma                                                                                                                                                                                                         1000 Old Okeechobee Road; West Palm Beach; 561.833.6460; dolcedepalma.com

THE DETAILS

Dolce de Palma is proof positive that looks can be deceiving. This fabulous restaurant is situated in an extremely unassuming spot, in an industrial area, close to downtown West Palm Beach. This quirky location, next to the railroad tracks—just south of the Kravis Center off of Parker Avenue—is only part of the establishment’s charm. Kudos to Chef/Owner Anthony de Palma, whose desire to bring a touch of culinary sophistication and big-city verve to the area should be applauded. de Palma has lovingly transformed this space, which used to be home to a service station (the bathrooms are still on the outside), into an incredibly popular destination. Locals and visitors have been raving about his inventive take on Italian food with definitive Asian influences, since he opened the restaurant in May of 2008.

THE CHEFS

Anthony de Palma is a gifted and passionate chef and restaurateur—a self-described foodie—who was inspired by a variety of family members throughout his childhood in a Boston suburb. A dedicated and enthusiastic chef, de Palma is also a graduate of the New England Culinary Institute in Essex, Vermont. After graduating, he went on to apprentice at Antico Ristorante La Sibilla in Tivoli, Italy, and he has also worked in a number of distinguished restaurants in America, including Union Square Cafe in New York; La Bettola, Icaras and Museum of Fine Arts, in Boston; and Rialto in Cambridge, Massachusetts. de Palma’s long-time friend, Rene Michelena, is also his Chef de Cuisine. This incredibly talented chef has also garnered critical acclaim from the press, including being named one of Food & Wine magazine’s “Top 10 New Chefs in America” in 1998. His A-list resume includes positions at Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago and Las Vegas; Patina in Los Angeles; Sign of the Dove in New York; and La Bettola, Saint and Domani Bar & Trattoria in Boston.

Michelena, who grew up in the Phillipines and Chicago, is a graduate of the culinary program at Kendall College in Evanston, Illinois. de Palma and Michelena bring over thirty- five years of culinary experience to this superb restaurant.

THE SETTING

Dolce de Palma boasts an exterior with orange stucco walls, serving as the backdrop for their patio—which is filled with tables—and is covered by a burgundy awning that is accented with delicate white lights. The intimate interior is mod yet comfortable, with black leather banquettes (with striped throw pillows) and black wooden chairs surrounding the tables (formica, by day, dressed with white cloths, at night) and creamy ceramic tile floors. The textured walls are painted in hues of burgundy, olive green and cream, and are the perfect background for the changing array of paintings and prints by local artists. The open galley kitchen is home to de Palma, Michelena and their talented crew, who continually create mouthwatering dishes for their loyal cadre of diners.

THE CUISINE

de Palma describes his dynamic menu as glorified peasant-style cuisine, with an emphasis on fresh, seasonal ingredients and house-made specialties. With fifty-five seats—both inside and out—he can afford to adhere to his wonderful farm-totable philosophy, which includes hand-picked veggies from local purveyors, gifts of the sea from local fisherman, and house-made pastas, baked goods, sauces, spice blends and stocks. The sublime Mediterranean-inspired fare, created by de Palma, Michelena and company, is always evolving. While there are some menu staples, every menu is augmented by whatever is fresh each day. What a concept!

The Caesar salad is a clever and tasty deconstructed version, with whole Romaine leaves and a dressing in two parts—a creamy base (which is drizzled nicely on the leaves) and a soft-boiled, five-minute egg, which you can break (so that it runs all over the plate). This yummy dish is served with shaved red onions, focaccia crouton, and San Tumas cheese. Other sterling starters include the crispy grilled Margherita flat bread, comprised of house-made mozzarella, marinara sauce and fresh basil; the Pioggia di Antipasti (comprised of Genoa salami, spicy copa—ground pork shoulder—haricot vert, house-made mozzarella, grilled eggplant, marinated mushrooms, ovendried tomatoes and toasted peppers); and the Dolce salad, comprised of watercress, frisee and lupini beans in a perfect balsamic vinaigrette.

Pastas—which come in half- and full portions—are a must. I am addicted to the house-made tomato fettuccini, which is served with yummy langoustines, scallops, arugula, oven-dried tomatoes, and oregano butter. The porcini Bolognese is a winning twist on a soul-satisfying favorite, comprised of house-ground beef and cinghiale (wild boar), porcini mushrooms and San Marzano tomatoes, with conchiglie pasta (conch shells). The Chef’s Pasta Whim of the Night is always a special treat—order it without asking for a description!

The entrees at Dolce de Palma are always enticing. If lobster makes you smile, opt for their Lobster Roast. This divine dish allows the expertly cooked lobster to shine. This dish is served in a light, red pepper miso broth, along with bok choy, leeks, Vidalia onions, corn and fennel. Some other highlights include the crispy duck breast, which is served with cipollini (onions), red watercress and carrot-pineapple sambal. Or try the sliced ahi tuna, which is served with a Mediterranean salad of feta cheese, hummus, cucumbers and grapefruit; and the braised balsamic-ginger short ribs, which are served with broccolini.

The dessert offerings are punctuated by a stellar selection of house-made gelati and sorbetti. (And it’s no wonder—before opening this restaurant, de Palma ran a gelateria in North Palm Beach.) Select a trio of your favorites from a rotating selection of lemon sorbetto, chocolate gelato, passion fruit sorbeto, pistachio gelato, blood orange sorbeto, and banana-strawberry-coconut gelato. You can also find a nice selection of cookies, pastries and other sweet treats, such as the apple-mango crostada (which is served with cinnamon gelato) and the pineapple upside-down cake.

THE LIBATIONS

Charming Manager Jessica Bailey has created a thoughtful wine list with approximately 40 offerings (by the bottle) from noteworthy vineyards that produce small quantities. The list has a definitive Italian influence, but there are also plenty of wines from California, Argentina and Germany. There are about 10 wines by the glass, and a selection of hand-picked beers.

THE EXTRAS

Everyone is friendly and attentive here, which adds to the excellent dining experience. The professional staffers have been mentioned in plenty of restaurant reviews—yes, the press has been kind to Dolce de Palma. The restaurant was named “Best New Restaurant” of 2008, by The Palm Beach Post. The Boston Globe and the South Florida Sun-Sentinel have also praised this eatery. Dolce de Palma serves lunch Monday through Friday, and dinner Wednesday through Saturday. Reservations are suggested. V

Inspiring Ambiances

Fine dining, at its best, is part theater, part therapy. The restaurants profiled here provide outstanding cuisine in a beautiful environment. Wonderful food served by attentive staffers in lovely surroundings, can transform your day and increase your pleasure quotient. These two eateries should definitely be on your short list!
BY SHARON LEVINSOHN

Casa Tua
1700 James Avenue
Miami Beach
305.673.1010
casatualifestyle.com

THE DETAILS

Casa Tua (your house, in Italian) is a jewel of a restaurant set in a lovely Mediterranean Revival home in the Art Deco section of South Beach. Situated behind a wrought-iron gate and tall hedges sans signage at the corner of 17th Street and James Avenue, this exclusive destination corners the market on scrumptious Italian cuisine served in a casually elegant environment. You can dine indoors, in a variety of venues, or outdoors on the patio and revel in the warm and welcoming ambiance that makes you feel like you are dining in the home of a good friend or a close relative (who happens to have very good taste in everything from food to furnishings). Owners Miky (a real estate investor) and Leticia (a model) Grendene a talented husband-and-wife team have created an incredibly enticing destination, which has become one of the most sought-after spots in Miami. The Grendenes have scored a definitive hit by combining superb food, impeccable service and lush surroundings. In addition to the restaurant, this dynamic duo has added five luxuriously decorated hotel rooms, along with a members only private club on the second level. It is no surprise that plenty of famous faces, including entertainers, business leaders and social movers and shakers, regularly flock to Casa Tua for a dose of upscale hospitality at its finest.

THE CHEF

Gifted Executive Chef Sergio Sigale has been wowing diners at Casa Tua since the restaurant debuted in 2002. This dedicated chef, who was born and raised in Brescia, Italy, began his culinary career at age fourteen. After attending culinary school in Italy, he went on to hone his craft at a wide variety of restaurants throughout the globe (including stints at the Sheraton Bahrain and at Bice in Montreal). After meeting Miky while cooking at the latter, he was inspired to join Casa Tua. He revels in using superb, fresh ingredients to create fabulous dishes that please his discerning diners.

THE SETTING

This lovely villa was built in 1925 as a private home by architect Robert A. Taylor. Listed on Miami Beach’s roster of historic places, Casa Tua is an oasis of calm in an area that thrives on sizzle and flash. Since the owners, management and staffers are devoted to providing their guests with a convivial environment, they also offer a communal table (which seats 20) in front of their impressive open kitchen. This long, rectangular dark wood table is home to plenty of flickering glass votives and numerous small, square glass containers that are filled with fresh cut roses, and is flanked by comfy chairs which are dressed with tan and cream striped slipcovers. The library is another dining option which is filled with tables surrounded by blue and white striped banquettes (with plenty of  throw pillows) and tan wicker chairs (with coordinating cushions). Tables are dressed with double white linen cloths, flickering votives, large hurricane candles and fresh roses in low, square glass vases. The white walls are home to a variety of framed black-and-white photographs, and there is an entire wall of bookshelves brimming with tomes on a wide array of subjects and more original artwork. There are also several patio areas, accessed via French doors, which are brimming with lush greenery, a variety of trees (some strung with hanging glass lanterns) and oversized square cream canvass umbrellas. The tables are surrounded by teak wood chairs and navy cushions with white piping. Wherever you choose to dine, you will be enveloped by Casa Tua’s distinctive brand of genuine hospitality. Charming and distinguished General Manager, Lucio Zanon, channels the Grendene’s dedication to the good life and he also leads a staff that is passionate about attending to the needs of all of their guests. The service here is exemplary incredibly attentive without being intrusive which is a rarity in South Florida (especially in South Beach).

THE CUISINE

Chef Sergio and company will inspire your taste buds on every visit to this unique destination. From the moment you are seated, and can tuckin to the plentiful bread bowl (the focaccia and the oversized breadsticks are quite yummy), you will know that you have arrived at someplace special. Even the EVOO (extra virgin olive oil) and the aged balsamic vinegar herald an attention to detail. Ditto the china plates which bear the Casa Tua moniker in black script.

Standout starters include the baked Taylor Bay scallops served on the shell with Ligurian olive oil; the tuna tartare sushi grade, naturally which is mixed with capers, onions, olives and sun-dried tomatoes, and plated  with EVOO and aged balsamic vinegar; the snapper carpaccio, which is served with a passion fruit dressing, along with red radishes and Fresno chilies; and the creamy, dreamy burrata cheese from Puglia, Italy, which is served with organic heirloom tomatoes. Pastas are house-made and quite memorable, so you need to order a few to get the full Casa Tua dining experience. Chef Sergio is known for his risottos, so order whatever is on the menu (which changes daily, save for a few signature items). I adore the faro risotto with Maine lobster. This sublime, aromatic treat was created with diced red chilies, basil, EVOO, white wine and cherry tomatoes, and proved to be quite soul-satisfying. I also suggest that you try Chef Sergio’s unusual take on gnocchi, such as the version which is stuffed with bagoss cheese and served in a subtle pear sauce with bits of crispy prosciutto, as well as his pappardelle with a swell duck ragu, and his tagliolini with crème fraiche and caviar.

When it comes to main courses, which are billed under Secondi Piatti here, consider their signature dishes of seared beef tenderloin, which is served with melt-in-your-mouth grilled foie gras, along with toasted hazelnuts and leeks, and the grilled lamb chops, which are served with winter veggies and a Jerusalem artichoke puree. The seared, line-caught Branzino a Mediterranean sea bass is a perennial winner, thanks to Chef Sergio’s searing it with EVOO and serving it along with a mélange of olives, cherry tomatoes, roasted artichokes and asparagus. This stacked dish is as delicious as it is healthy what a concept. If meat is on your mind, order the roasted veal tenderloin, which comes with soft polenta and porcini mushrooms or the Japanese A5 Wagyu strip loin, which is grilled, sliced and served with roasted fingerling potatoes.

Desserts are quite seductive, thanks to the talent of Executive Pastry Chef Oscar Bonelli. His signature tiramisu is a fluffy dream of a sweet ending, thanks to mascarpone cheese from Italy. You also should indulge in the warm chocolate cake with caramelized bananas and the Caprese Crostatina a tony tart which comes with fresh raspberries and a scoop of house-made vanilla gelato. BTW, all of the gelato is made fresh, daily,
and the flavors rotate.

THE LIBATIONS

Casa Tua offers an impressive, thoughtfully designed wine list. There are over 200 exceptional wines (including a serious amount of organic and biodynamic choices) and over 25 noteworthy Champagnes, including bubbly from Dom Perignon, Perrier Jouet, Laurent Perrier and Taittinger. While the wine list is predominantly culled from many regions in Italy, there are also vintages from France, the United States, Spain, Austria,  Germany, Portugal, Chile, Argentina and Australia. There is also a full bar menu and a savvy selection of specialty cocktails. Dedicated Sommelier, Erik Saccomani, is an expert at guiding you through the noteworthy offerings for every course.

THE EXTRAS

Casa Tua serves lunch Monday through Friday and dinner nightly. For a true getaway, book one of the sumptuously designed guest rooms that are decorated with style and substance.

3030 Ocean
Marriott Harbor Beach Resort & Spa
3030 Holiday Drive
Ft. Lauderdale
954.765.3030
3030ocean.com

THE DETAILS

3030 Ocean is a superb modern American restaurant, which specializes in serving up incredibly fresh seafood in a casually chic setting. Situated off the lobby in the sprawling Marriott Harbor Beach Resort & Spa, on 16 oceanfront acres just south of Fort Lauderdale’s famous strip, this fine dining outpost has been drawing serious foodies since it debuted in December of 2000. Locals and visitors alike cannot get enough of Executive Chef Dean James Max’s creative takes on gifts from the sea. This passionate and innovative culinary master specializes in sourcing fresh, local seafood and preparing each dish to tantalize the taste buds. The oceanfront setting is a bonus, with water views from a majority of tables. The newly opened patio features a bar menu of small bites.

THE CHEF

A Stuart, Florida native, Chef Dean grew up in the food business and gained hands-on experience from his father, who was a produce broker. When the family moved to Virginia and lived on a farm, he gained invaluable experience in the growing cycles. He went on to earn a Bachelor of Science from Florida State University and he also attended the Florence Study Center in Italy. Before opening up 3030 Ocean, Chef Dean was the chef/owner of Woodside, an acclaimed eatery in Brentwood, California. He was also the Executive Chef at a variety of distinguished restaurants throughout the United States, including Mumbo Jumbo Restaurant in Atlanta; Brasserie Savoy at the Savoy Hotel in San Francisco; Gerard’s Place in Washington, DC; the Ritz-Carlton Dining Room in Pentagon City, Virginia; and the Ritz-Carlton in Atlanta. In addition to recently being named a James Beard Finalist, for Best Chef, South, Chef Dean has garnered plenty of media attention and accolades throughout his career. He was named South Florida’s Emerging Tastemaker by Food Arts magazine in 2007; Best Chef of South Florida by the National Restaurant Association in 2006; and Best Chef in South Florida by Boca Raton magazine in 2005. Furthermore, his Chef de Cuisine, Paula DaSilva who has been at 3030 Ocean from the start is also an extremely gifted chef who is currently on the television show, Hell’s Kitchen.

THE SETTING

This restaurant benefits from an ocean liner-themed interior design which includes light wood paneling and paneled square columns, creamcolored walls, porthole windows in the private dining rooms and a gleaming brass and striped glass divider (which separates the ample bar from the dining room. The soaring ceilings with oversized lighting fixtures adorned with whimsical pink, yellow and aqua designs, large abstract paintings in primary colors; and the mixture of wooden and marble flooring provide noteworthy accents. Oversized windows, which run along the entire East side of the restaurant, provide wonderful views of the beach and the Atlantic Ocean. You can choose to sit in one of the comfy banquettes, which are upholstered in light blue and brick-colored fabric with a design featuring star fish or at one of the square tables, which are surrounded by a mixture of pearlized leather chairs and tan wicker chairs with navy cushions. Additionally, small lamps, in between each banquette, provide subtle lighting features that up the intimacy quotient. While the room is quite large they seat 100 in the restaurant and 50 in the bar the room is still warm and welcoming, thanks to thoughtful interior design. Wherever you choose to dine, you will benefit from truly attentive customer service, from an extraordinarily knowledgeable and professional group of staffers, which is led by lovely General Manager Nicole Jackson. She has been with the restaurant since opening day, along with most of the wait staff, which is a very good thing.

THE CUISINE

The lovely menu at 3030 Ocean changes daily and features mostly local seafood. Chef Dean and Chef Paula are dedicated to creating dishes that truly sing they specialize in simple preparations that allow the first-rate ingredients to shine, assuring that every meal is memorable. You will start your culinary journey with a swell variety from the bread basket crispy sesame flatbread, ciabatta, pumpernickel and baguettes. Their Sea Bar offerings from the light blue menu, serve as a perfect starting point. You should order a variety of items the more the merrier including chilled jumbo Gulf shrimp (which arrive with cocktail sauce, dill sauce, fresh horseradish and a tiny Tabasco bottle); chilled Pacific oysters; ahi coconut tuna ceviche the best of its class which is served in a coconut shell and finished with a perfectly mild coconut sauce; and a half-dozen of the White Water clams (raw or steamed, you choose). Their signature soup, the creamy lobster bisque, is another winner (remember to dip the ciabatta). Even the salads are noteworthy. So try the Anjou pear number, which features greens with spicy pecans, Maytag blue cheese, and balsamic vinaigrette, and the Artisan Smoked Benton’s Ham Salad with avocado, baby greens, melon and a super basil vanilla vinaigrette.

When it comes to main courses, the fish dishes are absolutely sublime. Order whatever is on the menu, for it will be perfectly cooked and beautifully plated. I adored every dish, including the roasted wild striped bass,which is served with white beans, arugula, baby shiitake mushrooms, eggplant confit and piquillos aioli; the sautéed Florida red snapper, which is served with a boniato puree, grilled red onions and a clever  carrot-cumin sauce; the apricot-glazed mahi mahi, which is served with a Yukon puree, sweet corn, broccolini and onions in a coconut-curry sauce; and the crispy tuna tempura. The latter is wrapped in seaweed and a light tempura batter, then flash-fried, sliced and served with Japanese rice, pickled cucumbers and wild greens, along with a sesame-chili sauce. The butter-roasted Maine lobster is another must-have, which is taken out of the shell (thank you, Chef) and served with a Yukon puree and root veggies, along with an innovative Ice Wine ginger sauce.

Another signature dish is the grilled beef tenderloin, an all-natural version, which is served with a gratin of sweet Vidalia onions and greens, along with a Cabernet Sauvignon sauce. You will also enjoy the grilled lamb rack and shoulder, which is served with fingerling potatoes, wilted spinach, grilled Romaine lettuce and a mint chimichurri.

The desserts here are special thanks to Chef Dean’s fabulous recipes, so go ahead and order a few to split. I couldn’t resist the light-as-air lemon meringue Napoleon with a warm blueberry sauce, the roasted banana crème brulee, the raspberry sorbet (the sorbets and ice creams are all house-made and change daily), and the warm chocolate cake, which is served with a Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream.

THE LIBATIONS

3030 Ocean offers approximately 250 wines, including over 50 wines by the glass and over 30 Champagnes and sparkling wines. Their impressive wine list has a serious accent on California wines, but there are also numerous vintages from France, Italy, Spain, Chile, South Africa, Argentina, Australia and Oregon. There is a full bar, naturally, and a natty list of specialty cocktails, including the Watermelontini and the Key Lime Martini.

THE EXTRAS

3030 Ocean serves dinner daily. In addition to the À la carte offerings, there is also a wonderful three-course prix fixe menu, along with a five- or sixcourse Chef’s Surprise Tasting Menu (both are available with wine pairings).Most evenings jazz music plays overhead, but on Fridays you can enjoy a Flamenco guitarist. Chef Dean also offers monthly cooking classes.

Organic Eateries

ORGANIC EATERIES

Healthy dining options at Ethos Vegan Kitchen and Canyon Ranch Grill

BY SHARON LEVINSOHN

While being “green” has certainly received a great deal of media attention lately, less has been written about eating “green.” Thankfully, the number of farmers devoted to growing organic fruits and vegetables is growing, as well as the number of ranchers committed to raising organic meat and poultry. There are also a greater number of chefs that are dedicated to seeking out these healthier options, which pack a powerful punch in the taste and nutrition departments. The two eateries featured here—one upscale, one casual—and their talented chefs are redefining healthy, organic dishes with creative twists, on their own terms.

ETHOS VEGAN KITCHEN

1235 North Orange Ave., Orlando; 407.228.3898; ethosvegankitchen.com

THE DETAILS
Situated in a building dating back to 1925 in the heart of Orlando’s historic Antique District, Ethos Vegan Kitchen is a casual eatery that serves up yummy vegan fare. The former Lava Lounge site has been redesigned with colorful, painted walls that provide the perfect backdrop for paintings by local artists. Whether you sit inside or opt to dine outside on the oversized patio with a view of Lake Ivanhoe, you will get to relax and recharge while enjoying healthy and inventive offerings. For those of you who may wonder about veganism, this pertains to a type of vegetarianism where none of the food comes from animals—eliminating eggs, cheese and honey. Owners and husband-and-wife team, Kelly and Laina Shockley, are proud to be serving up delicious dishes that appeal to vegan and non-vegan customers. The popularity of their new restaurant and the awards and accolades they have already earned, prove that many diners appreciate an alternative cuisine.

THE CUISINE
The Shockleys are dedicated to creating and serving a wonderful array of dishes that are simple and soul-satisfying. They also prefer to use organic ingredients—approximately 75 percent, at last count—and they are gluten-free friendly. Best of all, most of their items are prepared from scratch, including their soups, dressings, sauces, hummus, salsa, tapenade and pastry dough. Dishes are artfully plated on plain white china—the perfect background for their colorful creations. Start off by ordering the Healthy Trio, comprised of black and green olive tapenade, hummus and tomatomango salsa, served with toasted bread, tortilla chips and raw veggies. There is always a nice selection of soups and favorites including the Creamy Polenta and Broccoli, the Creamy Spinach and Polenta, and the Tomato Basil. The memorable Ethos Garden Salad features mixed greens tossed with artichoke hearts, vine ripe tomatoes, black olives, sprouts, red onions, carrots, cucumbers and broccoli. You may choose one of their swell dressings—Apple-Tahini, Creamy Italian, Orange Ginger or Oil & Balsamic—and top it off with grilled Portabella mushrooms or seitan.

Ethos Vegan Kitchen features a host of hearty sandwiches, which are all served with your choice of tortilla chips and salsa, fresh fruit or coleslaw. Their signature is called What’s the Dilly, Philly? and is a new turn on the ultra-popular Philly Cheese Steak. The Ethos version features sauteed marinated seitan with onions, red and green peppers, vegan mozzarella cheese, and veganaise. You should also try the Hippie Wrap, with hummus, sprouts, cucumbers, banana peppers, tomatoes and lettuce; A Fungus Among Us with grilled marinated portabella mushrooms with lettuce, tomatoes, roasted red peppers and veganaise; and the Samson Burger, which is comprised of grilled black beans and is served with lettuce, tomatoes, red onions, sprouts, spicy mustard and Heinz ketchup.

Ethos Vegan Kitchen also serves up 10-inch pizza pies with your choice of sauce (marinara or pesto), vegan mozzarella and up to three toppings. The latter list includes roasted red peppers, artichokes, seitan, banana peppers, broccoli, zucchini and spinach. Favorite main courses are the Pecan-Encrusted Eggplant, an enticing dish comprised of eggplant which has been accented with sauteed pecans and is served with mashed potatoes, gravy and fresh seasonal veggies, as well as the Pumpkin Seed & Pesto Penne Pasta, distinguished by a creamy pesto sauce, served over the pasta, which is tossed with tomatoes, squash, and zucchini, and then topped with roasted pumpkin seeds.

For dessert, you can indulge in a variety of homemade bakery items including chocolate chip cookies, shortbread, fruit tarts, muffins and the cake of the day.

THE LIBATIONS

Yes, they have wine (by the glass and the bottle), and bottled beer, along with brewed iced tea, hot tea, fresh coffee (with free refills on the teas and the coffee), bottled soda and bottled water. They also offer hot spiced apple cider, orange juice, soy milk and bottled Yerba Mate.

THE EXTRAS

The Shockleys are dedicated to ethical business practices. They provide a friendly, safe, equitable working environment and they pay their employees a living wage. They also have an Employee Fund jar on their counter and the money is distributed each month to charities, special projects or as tips. It is not surprising that Ethos Vegan Kitchen has been a media favorite. The eatery has snagged many awards, including “Best Vegan/Vegetarian, Critics’ Pick,” Orlando Weekly’s Best of Orlando 2008; “Best New Restaurant” (opened August 2007 - August 2008) from the Orlando Sentinel 2008; “Best Vegetarian Restaurant,” Orlando Sentinel, 2008; and “Best Healthy Lunch” (First Place) from WESH - 2 News/CW-18, 2008 A-List.

In Good Taste

IN GOOD TASTE

Luxury dining in Florida’s fine resorts

By Sharon Levinsohn

The luxe life has never been so sweet, especially in Florida. There are a myriad of wonderful upscale restaurants that provide transcendent dining experiences. From extraordinary food to impeccable service, the chefs and staffers at these restaurants pride themselves on perfecting every detail. The two outstanding restaurants profiled here will both soothe your soul and palate.

Scarpetta
The Fontainebleau; 4441 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach; 305.674.4660; scarpettannyc.com

THE DETAILS
Scarpetta is a glamorous new restaurant situated in the Sorrento tower of the newly renovated Fontainebleau Miami Beach. The swank hotel emerged from an impressive billion dollar makeover in November of 2008, and now features many enticing new eateries. This Manhattan outpost is garnering raves for phenomenal Italian food, expert service and a sophisticated ambiance. Residents and visitors, alike, are thrilled that celebrated Chef Scott Conant has chosen Miami for Scarpetta’s second location—his Gotham spot is located in the Meatpacking District and has also earned glowing reviews (including three stars from The New York Times and New York Magazine).

THE CHEF
Chef/Owner Scott Conant is a culinary star. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, he has been cooking for a grateful cadre of diners for over 20 years. He distinguished himself at two fabulous Italian restaurants in Manhattan, L’Impero and Alta, before opening his first Scarpetta there in May of 2008. He is a culinary master of Italian cooking with a twist. It is no surprise that GQ magazine’s food critic, Alan Richman, wrote that “Conant is probably second only to Mario Batali as New York’s favorite Italian chef…”

THE SETTING
This chic, sexy restaurant was designed by noted London-based interior designer, David Collins. He chose a classy nautical theme and employed several shades of blue with plenty of gleaming brass and dark wooden accents. There are mirrored brass porthole windows, oversized columns (dressed with mirrors and dark wood), coiled white rope accents, wooden floors and subtle lighting (courtesy of a mixture of creative fixtures including antique chandeliers). Comfy banquettes and dark wooden chairs are upholstered with a blue and white twig-patterned fabric and interior tables feature an attractive pale blue in-laid surface. A wraparound veranda framed with sheer white curtains offers a quieter place to savor the exceptional food. There is also a lounge at the front of the restaurant, with an attractive mosaictiled bar, low-slung marble-topped tables and cozy seating areas.

THE CUISINE
Chef Scott is passionate about cooking and is dedicated to using superb ingredients (with an emphasis on locally sourced items) for some outstanding results. His dishes are sublime thanks to his extraordinary talent which ensures that each meal here is special. Chef de Cusine, Michael Pirolo, is also an expert at executing Chef Scott’s vision. Even the bread basket is noteworthy (the focaccia and Stromboli reign) along an the accompanying trio of citrus herb-infused EVOO, mascarpone butter and eggplant caponata. Start your meal with the raw Yellowtail which is served sashimistyle along with ginger oil and a Chef Scott is passionate about cooking and is dedicated to using superb ingredients (with an emphasis on locally sourced items) for some outstanding results. His dishes are sublime thanks to his extraordinary talent which ensures that each meal here is special. Chef de Cusine, Michael Pirolo, is also an expert at executing Chef Scott’s vision. Even the bread basket is noteworthy (the focaccia and Stromboli reign) along an the accompanying trio of citrus herb-infused EVOO, mascarpone butter and eggplant caponata. Start your meal with the raw Yellowtail which is served sashimi-style along with ginger oil and a prinkling of Hawaiian sea salt; the Tuna Susci, a creative take on a cut roll with slices of raw tuna, marinated veggies and preserved truffles; or the Mozzarella in Carrozza, which features two slices which are breaded with Panko bread crumbs, lightly fried and served atop a sea of stewed baby tomatoes. The Creamy Polenta is a truly decadent (and delicious) signature starter, which is comprised of plenty of cream, milk, Parmesan and butter (along with the requisite corn meal) which is served with truffled mushrooms. Much has been written about Chef Scott’s signature spaghetti—with good reason—this legendary dish is a must. The house-made pasta (all of the pastas at Scarpetta are created by a gifted pasta chef) has the perfect texture to absorb just the right amount of the gentle sauce of Roma tomatoes, EVOO and fresh basil. To say that this is the perfect pasta dish is putting it mildly—it is better than that. Subtle, simple and superb win the race every time. You should also indulge in the Duck and Foie Gras Ravioli, another award-winning treat; the Agnolotti dal Plin (minidumplings filled with veal, chicken and pork); and the Pappardelle, which is served with a short rib ragu and chestnuts. Other standouts include the Mediterranean Branzino ‘Acqua Pazza’ (crazy water in Italian), which features perfectly broiled sea bass that is served in a delicate shellfish broth along with couscous, veggies and pieces of lobster; the Bistecca di Manzo, a boneless rib-eye, served with roasted veggies, preserved truffles and Parmigiano; and the Black Cod, a braised version served with concentrated tomatoes and roasted fennel. If you are feeling adventurous, order the Moist-Roasted Capretto—the baby goat—which is served with roasted potatoes, pancetta and broccoli rabe. Chef Scott and Chef Alan Kwan (the corporate toque for Scarpetta) also created a splendid dessert menu. You will be extremely spoiled by the Pistacchio Cannoli, mini-treats stuffed with orange mousse and served with balsamic macerated strawberries; the Coconut Panna Cotta, which features caramelized pineapple that is served in a guava “soup” along with a pineapple sorbet; and the Amadei Chocolate Cake, a supreme molten delight—made from this popular chocolate from Tuscany—which is served with burnt orange-caramel gelato and an espresso sauce.

THE LIBATIONS
Talented sommelier, George Hock, presides over an impressive wine list (created along with Dave Mokha, the Wine Director of the Fontainbleau Miami Beach) that boasts approximately 375 wines. The majority of the offerings are from 20 regions in Italy, with a from Spain. There are also about 25 fine wines by the glass, along with a full bar and an inventive cocktail menu. Their signature drink is The San Remo, which is comprised of Carpano, Antica (an artisanal vermouth), Campari, Maker’s Mark bourbon, St. Germain (elderberry liqueur) and fresh lemon and lime juice. Hock is happy to pair the perfect libation with each course, including rare wines such as Mirabile Viognier, a superb white wine from Sicily (there are only 150 cases produced each year) and Moschioni Real Rosso, a red biodynamic wine from Frioli, which is only bottled in Magnums.

Luxury dining in Florida’s fine resorts BY SHARON LEVINSOHN

The Dining Room; Little Palm Island Resort & Spa; 28500 Overseas Highway, Little Torch Key; 305.872.2551; littlepalmisland.com

THE DETAILS
The Dining Room at the revered Little Palm Island Resort & Spa is an incredibly enticing and romantic spot, situated in a unique destination. This beautiful five-and-a-half acre island in the Atlantic Ocean, about three miles off of Little Torch Key, is home to this wonderful resort which definitely corners the market on casual elegance. This relaxed, yet decidedly upscale slice of paradise features 30 suites housed in thatched hut bungalows, tropical gardens and over 250 palm trees, plenty of white sandy beaches that ring the island, a heated freeform swimming pool, a marina and several docks of varying sizes, an inviting spa (SpaTerre) and scrumptious cuisine provided by The Dining Room. You can dine in the restaurant—with plenty of indoor and outdoor options—or have your meals delivered to your guest suite. Thankfully, The Dining Room at Little Palm Island is open to the public and is reachable only by boat or yacht, sea plane, or via the resort’s launches (which go back and forth between the shore station and the island throughout the day and the evening).

THE SETTING
The Dining Room at Little Palm Island features an interior design with pale wooden and bamboo ceilings, whirring fans, lacquered wooden floors, an oversized chandelier and nicely spaced tables surrounded by wooden chairs with green cushions and seat backs with carved pineapples. All of the tables are dressed with white linen cloths, silverware with a scallop shell motif, fuchsia orchids and glass and metal pineapple-shaped hurricane lamps. One wooden wall is covered with framed black and white photographs from when the much-loved movie, “PT 109,” which was filmed on the island in 1962 (when it was a fishing village). Colorful tropical paintings as well as oversized mounted fish adorn this relaxing space. Olive green, window- paned French doors open up onto one of the seductive weathered teak porches, which provide lovely views of the water. You can also opt for a table right on the beach—a setting so romantic it feels as if it were plucked from a movie—with tiki torches and candles, or you can dine in your suite or on your yacht. Wherever you choose to eat, you will be treated to Executive Chef Luis Puis’ (pronounced Pose) delicious take on Floribbean cuisine. A host of local musicians and singers enhance each dinner with a mix of Sinatra- Martin-Bennett standards and jazzy tunes.

THE CHEF
Chef Luis is an amiable fellow and a genuine culinary star, who is passionate about creating memorable island fare. He joined Little Palm Island in 2006 and has distinguished himself by creating ribbean-French dishes that are punctuated by fresh Florida Keys fish (including the yummy stone crabs and lobsters caught right off of the island), fruit and herbs grown on the island (such as Key limes, naturally) and locally sourced ingredients. Born and raised in Cuba, Chef Luis was trained at the Sergio Perez Government School of the Culinary Arts in Havana. He landed his first Executive Chef gig at the Chateau Miramar, a prestigious boutique hotel in Havana. After moving to the United States in 1997, he also cooked at the Big Fish Restaurant on the Miami River, the Hotel Plaza Athenee in New York, the Turnberry Island Resort and Club in Miami and the Beau Rivage Resort and Casino in Biloxi, Mississippi (where he was responsible for seven restaurants).

THE CUISINE
As you peruse the menus (which change daily) you can savor the warm offerings from the bread basket. Every meal features a terrific selection of house-made offerings, such as cornbread squares with jalapeno, foccaccia, parsley and chive biscuits, poppy seed rolls, and raisin bread. The selection of chilled items from the Raw Bar is top-drawer. You should definitely order the stone crab claws, which are served with a yummy coconut-mustard sauce, and the half-Maine lobster (served in the shell). There are numerous standout appetizers on the menu including the towering spinach and arugula salad with a bell pepper vinaigrette (all dressings are made in-house); the frothy coconut lobster bisque (with lime sour cream and chives); and the bracing ceviche (which also changes daily) of grouper, mahi mahi, tuna or shrimp, topped with yucca crisps. There are also a multitude of mouthwatering entrees, thanks to the gifted Chef Luis and the talented Executive Sous Chef, Rafael Perez, including the Maine Lobster, which is steamed and served out of the shell with a hash of sweet corn, apples, fennel, onions and black truffle oil. I would also recommend the Australian Wagyu Beef, which is a grilled sirloin that is served with tostones (fried plantains) and a truffled chimichurri. Why not indulge in the Guava BBQ Glazed Black Grouper, served with Key lime mashed potatoes and a tomato salsa, or the Pork Duo, which is comprised of tenderloin and pork belly, served with plantains, hash of corn, black beans and onions, along with a mustard sauce? Or try the Grilled Swordfish, which is served with crispy chorizo and a vegetable escabeche (marinated with vinegar and citrus) with a mild parsley sauce. The desserts here, like the entrees, are beautifully plated and a treat for both the eyes and the taste buds. A must on this menu: the Key lime pie, a dreamy choice, featuring a cashew crust and a topped with fresh vanilla whipped cream. Or partake in the flourless chocolate cake, which is served with zabaglione and garnished with micro greens and a few scoops of sorbet and ice cream (I could become addicted to the banana flavor). But for a truly exquisite dessert experience, try the array of soufflés and crème brulee that change daily.

THE LIBATIONS
The drink of choice on this paradise escape is surely The Gumby Slumber, which was created by a long-time bartender who loved to sleep late. Now the island’s signature welcome drink, guests are treated to this cocktail, gratis, when you arrive at the Shore Station before you depart for the island. The Gumby Slumber is comprised of Captain Morgan’s Parrot Bay Coconut Rum, Captain Morgan’s Spiced Rum, pineapple, orange and cranberry juice, and coconut flakes. In addition to this refreshing beverage, you can choose from an inviting cocktail menu (watermelon mojitos anyone?). There is an impressive wine list with over 300 vintages from all over the globe, along with approximately 25 wines by the glass, as well as seven to eight Champagnes. A full bar menu is also available.

THE EXTRAS
The Dining Room serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. There is also an outdoor lounge, named The Monkey Hut, which is filled with red brass monkey lamps, whirring paddle fans, and wicker furniture topped with plenty of red and white cushions, as well as a fire pit on the beach surrounded by cozy seating areas. The Dining Room and the resort have earned numerous accolades and awards from the media and industry publications, including Mobil, AAA, the Zagat Survey, Travel & Leisure and Florida Trend. The restaurant and the resort are filled with a superior team of staffers led by Managing Director Matt Trahan. Kudos go to Mr. Trahanalong with The Dining Room General Manager Kevin Geanides, Maitre D’ Brenda Stetler, and Assistant Manager Randa Ruppert. The island is also populated by some extra special guests—Key deer—who swim over from nearby Big Pine Key each day. These beautiful animals enjoy eating the flowers off of the tables in the dining room, on the porch and on the beach. The staff is adept at wrangling the deer and keeping them away from your table. So, please resist the urge to feed these gentle creatures. In fact, the gracious staffers at this resort ensure that every need is met and every wish is fulfilled—if only life could mirror Little Palm Island!